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The physics of surfing – Nick Pizzo

Wondering how you can catch the perfect wave? Dive into the fascinating and complex physics of surfing.

Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.

Lesson by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust.

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View full lesson: https://ed.ted.com/lessons/the-physics-of-surfing-nick-pizzo

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20 comentarios

  1. Wat software did u use to do the animation? AE or AN?

  2. Thats why i live surfing I have tried to that to my friends but they still think you are just standing on a stick on the water

  3. Ted-ed really awesome

  4. It reminds me of Oswald

  5. at first i thought she was a he

  6. The steepening wave face forms a hill of water. You slide down the hill like a skier or sledder slides down a mountain. Except this hill continuously catches up with you so your slide continues until the hill collapses.Simple. The fact that you descend while the hill continues to lift you creates that uncanny sense of weightlessness that makes the magic.

  7. you may want to check this guy out for perfect waves: https://www.instagram.com/alex.beloug/

  8. 🏄🏻‍♀️🏖

  9. id like to learn how to surf, but those sharped teeth fish will ruin your life

  10. Hello can anybody tell me how those kinds of videos are created? which programs are used? thanks!

  11. Cowabungga 🤙🤙🤙🤙

  12. This animator should work on more videos the have amazing skill

  13. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! WHY IS HER HEAD SO SMAAAAAAALL AAAAAAAAAAAAAA! IS SHE OK!?!?!?! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

    cool vid though

  14. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! WHY IS HER HEAD SO SMAAAAAAALL AAAAAAAAAAAAAA! IS SHE OK!?!?!?! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

    cool vid though

  15. F to pay respects to the crab

  16. That's one thicc surfer

  17. I don’t like school but I like this

    Some subs would be

  18. worst possible illustrations

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